CHIANG MAI, THAILAND
Next time you’re in Chiang Mai, walk down this side street and find the guy banging an elephant design into a sheet of silver. It’s okay, the dog’s friendly. Ask to see his chedi and he’ll take you to the red gate around the corner, unlock it and let you in. There, built into his living room, is the remains of the centuries-old Wat Bang Muang. He still lights incense on it every morning.